The blank is increased accordingly to the Knurl Pitch. The force applied through forming is increased in larger diameters making knurling difficult and slow. Knurl cutting is achieved by using knurl wheels to actually cut instead of forming the blank. The knurl wheels are set at an angle, making the knurling edges of the knurl wheels cut into the blank. Pressure is minimized while speed and feed are increased.
Inch and Metric Dimensions. If the knurl is not parallel, adjust the head. Be sure to use plenty of coolant to flush away the chips.
Set the work diameter on the tool scale by unlocking the socket head screws from the rear and tapping to break the lock. The tool has to be mounted in the machine on center. Use the fine adjustment screws to insure both knurls are hitting equally. Always have plenty of coolant flushing the work area. The knurls should be fitted to the holder as shown using a high temperature grease for initial lubrication. Tighten the socket cap screw to ensure the knurls are secured adequately and that they are free to rotate.
Loosen the two pairs of set screws A on the top and underside of the head unit. Using an allen key in the back-end of the shaft, rotate both wheel mechanisms independently and set the pointers on the graduated scale to the correct diameter of the workpiece.
Re-tighten all four set screws to secure the shafts. Loosen the two set screws B which prevent the head from pivoting slightly. Loosen the main head pivot screw C just enough to allow the head to centralize when it touches on the component. Now clamp the tool into the machine as shown in section 1 above. Bring the tool down to a position that is just clear of a pre-turned diameter. Turning the chuck by hand, continue to move the cross slide X Axis until both knurls centralize and touch the pre-turned diameter at the same time.
Look through our website. Search Advanced Search Search Tips. Please wait as we process your request. Call for Pricing. Stay Connected. Penn Tool Co. Move the knurls so they're adjacent to the work and advance the cross slide until one of the knurls touches the work - spin the knurl to judge contact.
Adjust the tool holder's height and cross slide position until both knurls touch with similar friction on the work. Verify that the tool height doesn't change as the tool holder is locked to the tool post - make slight adjustments as needed. I tried mounting this knurler in a regular QCTP holder on the front of the toolpost as shown in the PM thread and found the cross slide had to be retracted considerably from the position used to turn the work to the diameter being knurled.
Mounting the knurler on the side of the tool post reduces this considerably, depending on where it is positioned in the holder's slot.
The Zeus commercial knurlers rotate the knurl holders but the knurl holders are oriented with the axis parallel to the work axis -- again, several expensive tools are needed to cover the complete range of work diameters. My experimental unit works well but if I make another I will likely use a larger piece of steel for the body so a dovetail can be included to reduce stick-out from the QCTP and orient the knurl holders parallel to the work i.
This picture shows the knurler retracted and moved right for visibility of the knurl just cut. Note the sawdust type chips on the face of the top knurl and on the way cover. If you look carefully you'll see damage on the right edge of the knurled area from an attempt to knurl this 2" diameter with the setting used previously for 0.
Adjusting the knurl angle allowed making the knurl shown. This knurl is acceptable quality so the knurler has at least a diameter range; more testing is needed to determine the maximum diameter it is capable of knurling. I successfully knurled a relatively thin tube, one that would be crushed by pressure knurling. Commercial cut knurlers warn of heat buildup and suggest flood coolant to control temperature and remove chips.
So far I've run at about RPM with a light coating of oil on the work.
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