Check each valve guide in turn but note that the inlet and exhaust valve stem dimensions differ, so do not get them confused. If the rock exceeds the limit with a new valve, this will indicate the need for new valve guides as well. The removal and refitting of new guides is a task which must be entrusted to a specialist. To do this, locate two of the pistons at the top of their bores and seal off the remaining bores with paper and masking tape.
Press a little grease between the two pistons and their bores to collect any carbon dust which can be wiped away when the piston is lowered. To prevent carbon build-up, polish the piston crown with metal polish but remove all traces of the polish afterwards. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket see illustration. Tap off the sprocket and remove the Woodruff key. Do not turn the camshaft. The sprocket can be held stationary using a metal bar with two bolts, with one bolt inserted through a Do not turn the crankshaft otherwise the pistons may touch the valve heads.
Hold the crankshaft stationary with a lever inserted in the starter ring gear remove the starter as applicable. Remove the Woodruff key. In this instance, an alternative method is to drill two holes, diagonally opposed to each other in the seal, insert two self-tapping screws and then pull on the screws using grips to withdraw the seal.
If using this method, care must be taken not to drill into the housing. Method 1 8 Drill two diagonally opposite holes in the seal. Insert two self-tapping screws and pull out the seal with grips. Method 2 Front seal 1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
Removal of 12 Remove the sump. Remove the gasket see illustrations. Apply the handbrake b Disconnect the right-hand side driveshaft and the exhaust system c Unclip the alternator wire from the sump see illustration d Drain the engine oil into a suitable container. Clean the drain plug and washer and refit it, tightening to the specified torque 2 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the sump from the cylinder block see illustration.
If it is stuck, lever it away or cut through the gasket with a knife. Remove the flange gasket see illustration. Note that the timing pointed bracket is located on the two upper central bolts and the timing belt guard on the two left-hand side bolts.
Remove the flange gasket. If not, the components must be checked for wear and renewed as necessary. Note that the cut-outs in the connecting rods and caps face the timing belt end of the engine.
The arrows on the piston crown also face the timing belt see illustration. It is not essential to remove the pistons or, therefore, to remove the cylinder head. Insert the feeler blade between the centre crankshaft web and the thrustwashers. This will indicate whether new thrustwashers are required or not. Keep the bearing shells and where fitted, the thrustwashers identified for position. Keep them identified for position see illustration. Each part should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated, as described in the following Sections.
Renew main and big-end shell bearings as a matter of course, unless you know that they have had little wear and are in perfect condition Using a micrometer, check each journal and crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be in excess of 0. These are usually supplied together with the main and big-end bearings on a reground crankshaft.
Start by examining the top of the bores. If these are worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is excessive, the engine will have had a high oil consumption rate accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust.
If the difference is more than 0. Check the connecting rods for wear and damage. The indentation on the bearing end of the connecting rod faces the same way as the arrow on the piston crown see illustration. Press out the gudgeon pin and separate the piston from the connecting rod. Using a feeler blade, check that the clearance of each ring in its groove is within the limits specified see illustration.
Pressure can only be checked with the engine assembled and the task should be entrusted to a VW garage. A visual examination of the oil pump can be made as follows: 1 Using an Allen key, unscrew the relief valve plug and extract the spring and plunger see illustrations. If evident, renew the oil pump complete but if in good order, reassemble the pump in reverse order and tighten the screws and plug. A new ring must then be shrunk on.
If you know how to do this and you can get a new ring, then the job can be done but it is beyond the capacity of most owners.
Do not attempt to clean the scoring off with a scraper or emery. Check the camshaft run-out by turning it between fixed centres with a dial gauge on the centre journal. If the run-out exceeds that specified, renew the shaft see illustration.
If these are chipped or worn it is possible to renew the starter ring. This means heating the ring until it may be separated from the flywheel, or 26 Timing belt and sprockets examination and renovation 1 The timing belt should be renewed as a matter of course at 40 miles 60 km , see Chapter 1.
Renew the belt if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If wear is excessive, renew the camshaft and followers. The washers must be fitted so that their oilways face away from the bearings in the block and cap. Note that the bearing shell lugs are adjacent to each other. Check that the crankshaft rotates freely then check that the endfloat is within the specified limits by inserting a feeler blade between the centre crankshaft web and the thrustwashers or bearing shoulder, as applicable.
Make sure that the arrow on the piston crown faces the timing belt end of the engine. Assemble the new bolts to the rods. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest point, drive the piston carefully into the cylinder with the wooden handle of a 1 Renew the oil seal in the oil pump housing see illustration. Do not damage the oil seal. Note that the tightening torque for the replacement bolts is 8 Nm 6 Ibf ft.
Insert the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. Note that the bolt holes only align in one position as they are offset. Remove the plastic sleeve. Release the compressor and remove it.
Tighten the bolt while holding the sprocket stationary with a metal bar and two bolts see illustration. Insert the sump bolts and tighten them evenly in diagonal sequence to the specified torque. If required, the two bolts at the flywheel end of the sump 3 3 The gasket part number should be uppermost see illustration. Tighten the bolt while holding the sprocket stationary with a metal bar and two bolts.
Insert the bolts and tighten them with an Allen key. Check that the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump 6 Fit the timing belt to the camshaft sprocket and coolant pump. Refit the gearbox to the engine, reversing the procedures described in Section 6.
This may take a little longer than usual as the fuel pump and carburettor float chamber may be empty. Check that the oil pressure light goes out. Do not operate the engine at full throttle or allow the engine to labour in any gear.
This will get rid of the small metallic particles which are produced by new components bedding in to each other. Maximum radial play. Valve length: Inlet. Wear limit. Pump gear teeth axial play wear limit. Pump chain drive deflection. Torque wrench settings Camshaft sprocket bolt. Timing belt cover: Upper bolt. Lower bolt. Camshaft bearing cap nuts: Stage 1. Stage 2. Number 5 cap screws. Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1. Stage 3. Oil pump bolts. Stay bracket bolts. Strainer assembly to pump body. Socket-headed screws in sump new.
Crankshaft sprocket bolt oiled - on: Stage 1. Flywheel bolt with shoulder. The oil pump has also been changed from the previously fitted crescent type to a gear type which is driven by chain from the crankshaft. Additionally, different ancillary components are fitted such as the carburettor and distributor.
Unless otherwise given in the following Sections, all servicing procedures are as given in Part A of this Chapter for the pre-August 1. The procedure for removing the cylinder head is basically the same as described in Part A of this Chapter but note the following: a The valve cover is different, being held in place by three bolts see illustration b There is a plastic oil shield located at the distributor end of the engine see illustration c The fuel and coolant pipes differ, depending on model d Spring type re-usable hose clips may be fitted.
These are removed by pinching the ends together to expand the clip and then sliding it down the hose e The clips on the fuel hoses are designed to be used only once, so obtain new ones or replace them with screw type clips 1 This is a straightforward task if the camshaft is removed but it is possible to renew the oil seal without removing the camshaft.
Note which way round it is fitted. Slacken the coolant pump bolts to release the tension in the timing belt. Use a suitable socket and a bolt in the end of the shaft to press the new seal home.
Push it in as far as it will go. Remove the camshaft sprocket and where applicable, the Woodruff key. They are usually numbered but mark them if necessary, to ensure correct refitting. Now undo the nuts holding 2 and 4 in a diagonal pattern and the camshaft will lift them up as the pressure of the valve springs is exerted. When they are free, lift the caps off. Do not try to lever them off with a screwdriver. Cylinder head 1 If the valve seats are badly pitted or eroded they can be reworked but this is a specialist job best left to a VW dealer or engine overhaul specialist.
Consult your VW dealer for advice. Hydraulic bucket tappets 4 With the camshaft removed, lift out the tappets one by one, ensuring that they are kept in their correct order and can be returned to their original bores see illustration. Valves 9 With the camshaft and tappets removed, use a valve spring compressor with a deep reach to compress the valve springs. Remove the two cotters and release the compressor and springs. Renew the whole set if any are too short.
Valve stem oil seals 5. Press the new seals onto the ends of the valve guides. When tightening the crankshaft sprocket bolt, observe the specified stages. Compare the results with the specified dimension. If the endfloat is greater than that specified, consult your VW dealer. Engine repair procedures - 1. The oil seal can be prised out and a new one pressed fully home. Fit and tighten No. Fit the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified torque see illustration.
Hand-tighten the retaining bolts. Special guides are used by the manufacturer both to line up the gasket and Refer to Part A of this Chapter for the tightening sequence but use the torque figures and stages given in the Specifications of this Chapter. Do not forget the earth lead under the inlet manifold nut. Failure to observe this precaution may result in engine damage caused by the valves contacting the pistons. With catalytic converter. GTi - January on: Without catalytic converter.
All other codes. Oil scraper ring: 1 part. Maximum end gap. Minimum height. Exhaust manifold nuts. Exhaust pipe to manifold.
Sump bolts. Sump drain plug. Main bearing cap bolts. Connecting rod big-end cap nuts: Stage 1. Oil pressure switch. Oil filter flange bolts. Front seal flange bolts:. Intermediate shaft flange bolts. Camshaft bearing cap nuts in sequence. Camshaft sprocket bolt. Valve cover nuts. Belt tensioner pulley. Crankshaft sprocket bolt oiled.
Intermediate shaft sprocket bolt. V-belt pulley. Timing cover. Rear cover lower bolts. Rear cover top bolt. Coolant pump bolts. Fuel pump bolts. Distributor clamp bolt. As for 1. Also The transmission is attached to the flywheel end of the engine.
The crankshaft is of five main bearing type, its endfloat being controlled by a shouldered centre bearing or by half thrustwashers located each side of the centre bearing.
The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt which is tensioned by a tensioner on an eccentric bearing. On engines manufactured before August , the valves are operated by bucket type cam followers in direct contact with the camshaft.
From August , all engines are fitted with a redesigned cylinder head incorporating hydraulic bucket tappets in place of the previous shim bucket tappets. Camshaft bearing No. In order to identify the type of tappets fitted, a sticker is normally affixed to the valve cover indicating that valve clearance adjustment is neither necessary nor possible. An intermediate shaft driven by the toothed timing belt drives the distributor and oil pump and on carburettor equipped engines, the fuel pump.
The oil pump is of twin gear type, driven from the immediate shaft and incorporates a pressure relief valve. The aluminium cylinder head is of conventional design with the inlet and exhaust manifolds mounted on the rear side as viewed with the engine in the vehicle. The crankcase ventilation system comprises a hose from the flywheel end of the valve cover to the side of the air cleaner.
On fuel injection equipped engines, there is a hose to the air inlet manifold and a hose to the air cleaner from a three-way connector on the valve cover. If the hoist is not portable and the engine is lifted, then sufficient room must be left behind the vehicle to push it back out of the way so that the engine may be lowered.
Removal of the gearshift linkage can only be done from underneath, as can exhaust downpipe-to-manifold detachment. Without this tool, detachment and certainly reconnection of the joint and clips is virtually impossible, so make arrangements to borrow or hire the tool in advance. Where this is the case, the following precautions must be taken when handling refrigerant lines or system components: a Do not stress or bend flexible hose lines to a radius of less than mm b Flexible hose lines must be correctly located, must not chafe against adjacent components and must be kept well clear of the exhaust manifold and downpipe c All metal tubing lines must be kept free of kinks and must be handled with care d Do not disconnect any of the air conditioning supply lines e Do not weld or apply heat in the vicinity of the air conditioning lines or equipment f If any part of the system is to be detached then it must first be depressurised by your VW dealer or a competent air conditioning systems engineer.
The only exception is the removal and fitting of the compressor drivebelt which can be achieved in the same manner as for the alternator drivebelt 5 Engine - removal 4 Carburettor equipped 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. On completion clean the drain plug and refit it. Renew the O-ring. On models manufactured after , remove the front panel before removing the radiator.
Position the cable out of the way. Unbolt the pump, belt tensioner and fluid reservoir and tie them to one side of the engine compartment. Although it may be possible to prise the clips free to separate this joint, the tool will definitely be required to refit the springs.
It may be necessary to further lift, lower or twist the unit to allow the through-bolt to be withdrawn see illustration.
The unit will have to be twisted slightly as it is raised. Once clear of the vehicle, lower it to the work surface.
Fuel injection equipped 28 On fuel injection equipped engines, the removal procedure closely follows that given for carburettor equipped engines. However, disregard those items concerning detachment of the carburettor and associated items. The following injection equipment items will need to be disconnected instead. Refer to Chapter 4 for further details: 29 Disconnect the wires from the warm-up valve green connector see illustration.
Place out of the way. Position out of the way. Disconnect the injector lines from the locating bracket on the throttle housing and fold them out of the way.
Fold the hoses back out of the way. The unit will need to be pulled forwards first then twisted and lifted. It is only necessary to refer to those paragraphs pertinent to the particular method being used. The engine must be supported on blocks, or alternatively the gearbox can be separated with the engine still on the hoist. The removal sequence need not necessarily follow the order given: a Alternator and drivebelt b Inlet manifold and carburettor or inlet manifold and throttle housing fuel injection c Exhaust manifold d Fuel pump e Warm-up valve fuel injection , if still attached f Distributor g Oil filter with cooler where applicable and filter mounting h Oil pressure and coolant temperature and sensor switches I Coolant pump and coolant hose connectors from cylinder block and head.
On some engines it will be necessary to remove the bung from the front 9. On other engines, the retaining screw can be seen but its key slot is deeply recessed access to it being made via the hole in the centre of the screw surround.
Detach the crankcase emission hose s from the rocker cover. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley. On the intermediate sprocket for the timing belt one tooth has a centre-punch mark. Turn the engine until this mates with a notch on the V-belt pulley bolted to the crankshaft sprocket see illustration.
To turn the engine over, remove the spark plugs then fit a suitable spanner onto the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and turn it in the direction of engine rotation. One tooth of this has a centre-punch mark. This should be level 9. Having turned the engine until these marks agree, now look at the cams for No 1 cylinder nearest the timing belt.
Now look through the hole in which the TDC sensor goes where the timing marks show on the periphery of the flywheel and note the reading. If it is too slack, adjust it by slackening the bolt holding the eccentric cam on the tensioner wheel.
If you are satisfied it can be adjusted to the correct tension, remove it and examine it for wear. Now is the time to order a new one if necessary. The intermediate, camshaft and crankshaft sprocket the latter in particular securing bolts are tightened to a substantial torque and the sprockets will therefore need to be firmly held when undoing the bolts.
Remove the bolt and spacer washer then withdraw the sprocket, tapping it free if necessary. Check the fit of the Woodruff key in the camshaft, it must be renewed if loose in its groove.
Lever out the Woodruff key and keep it with the sprocket. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn or the pistons may touch the valve heads. Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove it, together with the spacer washer, then lever the sprocket free from the crankshaft. Check the fit of the Woodruff key if fitted in the crankshaft, it must be renewed if loose in its groove.
Lever out the Woodruff key and keep it with the crankshaft sprocket. The caps are numbered see illustration but mark the side nearest the front of the cylinder head. Now undo the nuts holding 2 and 4 in a diagonal pattern. The camshaft will lift the caps up as the pressure of the valve springs is exerted.
When they are free, lift the caps off along with the camshaft. The oil seal on the front end of the camshaft will come with it. Depending on tappet type, proceed as follows: Shim bucket tappets Take each one out in turn, prising the little disc out of the bucket by inserting a small screwdriver either side and lifting the disc away.
On its reverse, each disc is engraved with a size eg. This is its thickness number. Note the number and then clean the disc and refit it, number side down. There are eight of these and they must not be mixed up. On assembly, each disc must go back into the bore from whence it came. This problem exists also for the valves, so a container for each valve assembly Label the containers 1 to 8, as follows: Containers 1 and 2 will be No 1 cylinder exhaust and inlet respectively Containers 3 and 4 will be No 2 cylinder exhaust and inlet respectively Containers 5 and 6 will be No 3 cylinder inlet and exhaust respectively Containers 7 and 8 will be No 4 cylinder inlet and exhaust respectively 5 Note the thickness of all tappet clearance discs from Nos.
Hydraulic bucket tappets 6 Lift out the tappets one by one, ensuring that they are kept in their correct order and can be returned to their original bores. Examination 10 Refer to Section 27 in Part A of this Chapter whilst noting that on exchange engines or cylinder heads, the camshaft is supplied with bearing shells instead of running directly in the head and bearing caps.
Exchange units supplied by VW may have an undersized camshaft with corresponding bearing shells. Where this is the case, the camshaft will have a yellow paint spot on it and the journal diameter will be An unmarked camshaft supplied with bearing shells will be of standard size with a journal diameter of Refitting 11 Refer to Section If the cylinder head is being removed with the engine in the vehicle, it is best removed with the inlet and exhaust manifolds.
The manifolds can then be detached after removal of the cylinder head but note that a special tool is required to release and subsequently reconnect the exhaust downpipe-to-manifold flange retaining clips. A splined key will also be required to undo and tighten the cylinder head bolts. Drain the cooling system, then disconnect the cooling and heater hoses from the cylinder head. Fuel injection equipped engines 8 Detach the injector lines from the cylinder head and location clips and fold them back out of the way.
Fold back and secure the hoses out of the way. All engines 16 Remove the timing cover and valve cover, then disconnect the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket. These are recessed in the well of the cylinder head and are socket-head bolts. They must be removed using the correct splined tool.
It may need a little tapping to loosen it but do not try to prise it loose by hammering in wedges. Lift off the gasket and, if the engine is not being dismantled, clean the piston crowns and block face. Note that the cylinder head bolts must not be re-used, a new set will need to be obtained when ordering the cylinder head gasket set.
Remove the spark plugs for cleaning. Because the collets and spring caps are set so far down in the head, a long claw is necessary on the compressor and it must be split sufficiently to enable the collets to be removed and inserted.
If such a tool is not to hand then find a piece of steel tube of about 25 mm inside diameter which will fit over the valve stem and press down the spring cover see illustration.
The length will depend on the size of the compressor so fit the compressor over the head fully extended, measure the distance between the claw and the valve spring seat and cut the tube to a suitable length. The tube may then be used with the compressor to extract the collets from each valve stem in turn. Place the valve, springs, collets and seats with the tappet in the appropriate receptacle, keeping them strictly together for refitting in the valve guide from which they were taken see illustration.
If your fingers are too big, put a blob of grease on the collet and pick it up with a small screwdriver, then insert it into the slot on the valve stem. If in doubt as to their condition, have your VW dealer check them for compression efficiency using a calibrated valve spring compressor.
Where this has occurred, the inlet valve may be reground on a machine at a dealer. Exhaust valves must not be reground on the machine but ground in by hand.
On engines fitted with hydraulic tappets, valves should not be re-cut as this will adversely affect the operation of the tappets. The valve rock limits are given in the Specifications. New valve guides must be fitted and reamed by your VW dealer. If the valve seat and valve are not satisfactory after 15 minutes then you will probably do more harm than good by going on.
Make sure both surfaces are clean, smear grinding paste onto the valve evenly and using a suction cup, work the valve with an oscillating motion lifting the valve away from the seat occasionally to stop ridging. Clean the seat and valve frequently and carry on until there is an even grey band on both seat and valve then wipe off all the paste. Place the straight-edge along the centre of the machined face of the head. Make sure there are no ridges at the extreme ends and measure the clearance with feelers between each combustion chamber head.
This is the area where the narrowest part of the cylinder head gasket comes and where the gasket is most likely to fail.
If the straight-edge is firmly in place and feelers in excess of 0. Pulling off the old seal is simple with pliers. With a packet of new oil seals is a small plastic sleeve. This is fitted over the valve stem and lubricated. The seal should then be pushed over the plastic sleeve until it seats on the guide.
This should be done with VW tool 10 which fits snugly round the outside of the seal and pushes it on squarely. If the seal is assembled without the plastic sleeve, it will be damaged and oil consumption will become excessive.
Insert the valve in the correct guide, fit the inner seat, valve springs and outer cap, assemble the valve spring compressor and possibly the small tube and compress the valve spring until the collets may be assembled to the valve stem see illustrations.
Remove the compressor, put a rag over the valve stem and tap the stem with a hammer. This is to ensure that the collets are seated correctly. If they are they will not come out. Repeat until all eight valves are in position in the cylinder head.
Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces with oil and fit the camshaft, positioned so that No 1 cylinder cams point upwards. Now install the other bearing caps, making sure they are the right way round marks towards the drive pulley and tighten the caps down using a diagonal pattern to the specified torque.
Install a new rubber seal at the opposite end to the sprocket. If renewing the sump, ensure that one of identical capacity is fitted Removal Note that the sump plug has an O-ring which must be renewed see illustration.
Remove the sump gasket which must also be renewed. Refitting 4 To refit the pump, ensure that the mating faces are clean, locate it in position and fit and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque.
Refit the sump and tighten the retaining bolts evenly to the specified torque. Place it on one side for cleaning and inspection. Note that, although the engine has to be removed to remove the crankshaft, the cylinder head, pistons and connecting rods can be left in position. Withdraw the flange, seal and gasket. Identify these numbers. If they are obscured, then mark the caps in the same way as the connecting rod caps. Before removing the caps, push the crankshaft to the rear and check the endfloat using a feeler blade between the thrustwasher flanges on No 3 main bearing and the crankshaft web see illustration.
It must not exceed the specified maximum. If the main bearings are not being renewed, make sure the shells are identified so that they go back into the same bearing cap the same way round The oil seal within the flange and the O-ring must be renewed on reassembly. The cooler must be renewed if the engine oil has been contaminated with metal particles, such as might be the case following total or partial engine seizure.
Renew it anyway if it is likely to contain any other harmful contaminant. The O-ring between the cooler and mounting must be renewed. Wipe clean the sealing faces of the cooler and mounting and smear the O-ring with clean engine oil. Start the engine and check for any signs of leaks.
Renew the switch O-ring. Renew the mounting gasket. If at all possible, use VW fitting sleeve No. Timing belt end 5 Remove the alternator, together with its drivebelt. On manual gearbox models, if the belt is difficult to loosen, have an assistant engage top gear and apply the brakes. On automatic transmission models, remove the starter model and restrain the driveplate ring gear with a suitable lever.
If available use VW fitting sleeve No. Ensure that the timing marks are aligned before refitting the timing belt and tensioning it. If available, use VW fitting sleeve No. Camshaft front seal Intermediate shaft seal 11 Remove the alternator together with its drivebelt. On automatic transmission models, remove the transmission then unbolt the driveplate from the crankshaft, noting the location of the spacer and shim s. Refit the gauge and press on the cap. Examine the face of the cover see illustration.
As seen in the If the depth of this marking is significant, then the face of the cover must be machined flat again. Dry and reassemble the gears, lubricating them with clean engine oil. Measure the backlash between the gears with a feeler blade see illustration. This should be 0. This must not exceed 0.
Once wear starts in a pump it progresses rapidly. In view of the engine damage that may follow a loss of oil pressure, skimping the oil pump repair is a false economy. Workshop Manual. Expert notation: Engine MPI 1. TSI engine 1. Engine MPI 1. With the introduction of a modular platform with a transverse power unit Modularer Quer Baukasten, abbreviated MQB , Volkswagen embarked on a modular strategy for the development and creation of cars.
According to this strategy, the same standard components and modules are used for all Polo, Golf and Passat cars. Starting with the new EA engine family, a similar strategy is beginning to be used in the creation of gasoline engines. They have a working volume of 1. The basic engine is a TSI 1. Volkswagen Jetta Service and Repair manuals. Regular servicing and maintenance of your Volkswagen Golf can help maintain its resale value, save you money, and make it safer to drive.
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